Little Tong Noodle Shop's Loving and Eclectic Ode to Yunnan

By now, most Americans recognize that Westernized basics like chop suey and General Tso’s are compromised simulacra of authentic Chinese food. And so, in recent years, cosmopolitan foodies have sought out everything from steamy Cantonese dim sum to smoked Peking duck to the mouth-numbing Sichuanese hot pot. “But what about Yunnan?” Simone Tong, the thirty-five-year-old Singaporean-Chinese chef and proprietor of Little Tong, asked. Her discoveries in the mountainous southwestern province were delicious enough to make her both laugh and cry.

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Little Tong