Hot-Weather Comfort Food

Simone Tong was putting together a bowl of cold noodles, heap by delicious heap — salty ground pork, crushed peanuts, tiny mint leaves, florets of pickled cauliflower — a jumble of textures, lit up with vinegar and chile. It was a simple dish, and one she affectionately described as homey in an earlier conversation, when I told her that it was one of my favorite things, and that I wanted to learn how to make it at home.

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